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Sunday 31 July 2011

Modernist guesthouse, commissioned by King Sihanouk in 1962, is the place to stay in Siem Reap. Like most of the Amanresorts, Amansara is intimate, luxurious, and relaxing. When you arrive at the serene compound—likely in the hotel's 1965 Mercedes limousine—you'll be welcomed "home." The concept sounds gimmicky at first, but with just 24 suites (half clustered around the slate pool; the others, each with a plunge pool, flanking a grassy courtyard), a staff that has mastered the art of hospitality (leave muddy sneakers outside your door, and they'll be scrubbed clean), and a pervasive "as you wish" attitude (no need to make dinner reservations—the kitchen's ready when you are), it does start to feel like you own the place.

Set in a lush garden enclosure, Amansara glows with the nuances of its 1960s conception. Commissioned by Norodum Sihanouk in 1962, today it is a peaceful contemporary and warm sanctuary, a mere remork and driver ride from an ancient civilisation gripped in the roots of the jungle and in the minds of those it touches, Angkor. The 12th century capital -the culmination of five centuries of Khmer civilisation - is living testimony to Cambodia’s ancestry as well as the foundation of their deeply philosophical identity. Housing over 100 stone temples it reveals a religious kingdom of the most significant remaining Khmer architecture in the world. Amansara provides a gracious contemporary gateway to this truly remarkable ancient epoch.

Amansara was once the former guesthouse of King Sihanouk. This classic 1960s structure has been converted into a calm oasis on the outskirts of bustling Siem Reap.

In 1962, King Sihanouk commissioned French architect Laurent Mondet to build a guesthouse enabling visiting dignitaries to enjoy a cool and contemporary stay while allowing them to embrace the outstanding ancient ruins and temples within its jungle and rice paddy terrain. The ruins of nearby Angkor, clinging on in the clutches of forest and farmland are today a UNESCO World Heritage Site and range from a cluster of bricks to the world’s largest single religious monument. Amansara, previously known as Villa Apsara, has had a fretful and fascinating legacy. Throughout it all this splendid architectural gem, now meticulously restored and nurtured by Amansara, has maintained its spirit of intent. It rests as the ideal portal for discovering the incredible culmination of five centuries of Khmer civilisation (between 802 and 1220 AD) representing one of humankind’s most profound and long-lived architectural achievements.


This tranquil home offers a multitude of relaxing opportunities within its private garden enclave. The sultry curved slate swimming pool is surrounded by bamboo and taupe cushioned loungers with a shaded pergola for alfresco delights. The Dining Room, previously the screening room of King Sihanouk, is both dramatic and outstanding with a cavernous seven-metre high ceiling and a well stocked walk-in wine cellar. The 24 suites are decorated in a classic Indochinese palette of cool grey, pristine white, dark timber and ivory with private courtyards and soothing water features. 12 of the suites have private swimming pools. The Roof Garden, surrounded and shaded by trees with mushroom hued cushions on low seating, is the ideal venue for relaxing by candlelight with pre-prandial drinks or invigorating yoga sessions with the rising sun. The Spa has four immaculate treatment rooms decorated in dark wood and fresh white and focuses strongly on therapeutic Cambodian techniques using organic products. The decor includes an exceptional Angkor-inspired 43m sandstone bas-relief set above a green hand-tiled reflective pond.

In the suites, an unembellished design of dark wood, ivory fabrics, terrazzo floors, and a subtle bas-relief wall decoration makes for a meditative space—one that's best for couples, given the open plan (the soaking tub is within view of the king-size bed) and glass-walled shower open to the private courtyard. The highlight of staying here, however, is entrée to Amansara's exclusive temple excursions—you'll be outfitted with a private guide and remork (moped-powered pedicab) driver. Hotel manager Siddharth Mehra enables guests to see the Angkor sites in as adventurous a way as they can handle: by motorcycle, by balloon, by helicopter, you name it. Want to dig deeper into the local culture? The library is stocked with books on Khmer civilization; scholars and artists give house talks and performances; the spa utilizes Cambodian techniques and products; and both Khmer and Western menus are available in the dining room. The tariff at Amansara can be breathtaking (rooms start at $750 per night, not including the compulsory half-board charge of $100 per person, per day); yet when you're welcomed back from a sunset outing by smiling staff proffering chilled, lemongrass-scented towels, and find intricately folded lotus blossoms floating in the bathtub, you have to admit, it's a pretty magical place.

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